:root{
  --bg:#faf8f3; --surface:#ffffff; --surface-2:#f4efe5;
  --ink:#17202e; --muted:#5a6472; --line:#ece3d3;
  --gold:#b8925a; --gold-2:#c9a874; --navy:#0d2036; --navy-2:#16345a;
  --shadow:0 14px 38px rgba(20,30,50,.10); --shadow-sm:0 6px 18px rgba(20,30,50,.07);
  --maxw:760px;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){
  :root{ --bg:#0b1626; --surface:#12233d; --surface-2:#0f1e35;
    --ink:#eaf0f7; --muted:#9fb0c6; --line:#22344f;
    --gold:#d6ad6b; --gold-2:#e3c288; --navy:#0a1830; --navy-2:#1a3a63;
    --shadow:0 18px 44px rgba(0,0,0,.42); --shadow-sm:0 8px 20px rgba(0,0,0,.32); }
}
:root[data-theme="light"]{ --bg:#faf8f3; --surface:#ffffff; --surface-2:#f4efe5; --ink:#17202e; --muted:#5a6472; --line:#ece3d3; --gold:#b8925a; --gold-2:#c9a874; --navy:#0d2036; --navy-2:#16345a; --shadow:0 14px 38px rgba(20,30,50,.10); --shadow-sm:0 6px 18px rgba(20,30,50,.07); }
:root[data-theme="dark"]{ --bg:#0b1626; --surface:#12233d; --surface-2:#0f1e35; --ink:#eaf0f7; --muted:#9fb0c6; --line:#22344f; --gold:#d6ad6b; --gold-2:#e3c288; --navy:#0a1830; --navy-2:#1a3a63; --shadow:0 18px 44px rgba(0,0,0,.42); --shadow-sm:0 8px 20px rgba(0,0,0,.32); }

*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{ margin:0; background:var(--bg); color:var(--ink);
  font-family:'Be Vietnam Pro',-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,"Segoe UI",Roboto,sans-serif;
  font-size:16px; line-height:1.6; -webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased; }
.serif,h1,h2,h3,.post-title,.brand-txt b,.cta-k{ font-family:'Playfair Display',Georgia,serif; }
img,svg{max-width:100%}
a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}
::selection{background:var(--gold);color:#12233d}

.eyebrow{ color:var(--gold); font-size:12px; letter-spacing:3px; font-weight:700; text-transform:uppercase; }
.eyebrow.center{text-align:center}

/* ---------- header ---------- */
.site-head{ max-width:1140px; margin:0 auto; padding:20px 22px;
  display:flex; align-items:center; justify-content:space-between; gap:16px; }
.brand{ display:flex; align-items:center; gap:11px; }
.brand-mark{ color:var(--gold); display:flex; }
.brand-mark .mark{ width:38px; height:38px; display:block; }
.brand-txt{ display:flex; flex-direction:column; line-height:1.05; }
.brand-txt b{ font-size:17px; letter-spacing:.5px; color:var(--ink); }
.brand-txt i{ font-style:normal; font-size:8.5px; letter-spacing:3px; color:var(--gold); font-weight:600; }
.head-cta{ border:1px solid var(--line); border-radius:100px; padding:9px 16px; font-size:14px; font-weight:600;
  color:var(--ink); background:var(--surface); box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm); white-space:nowrap; transition:border-color .2s,transform .2s; }
.head-cta:hover{ border-color:var(--gold); transform:translateY(-1px); }

/* ---------- hero ---------- */
.hero{ max-width:820px; margin:22px auto 8px; padding:26px 22px 10px; text-align:center; }
.hero h1{ font-size:clamp(32px,6vw,54px); font-weight:800; line-height:1.06; letter-spacing:-.5px;
  margin:12px 0 14px; text-wrap:balance; }
.hero-sub{ color:var(--muted); font-size:clamp(15px,2.3vw,17.5px); max-width:60ch; margin:0 auto; }

/* ---------- grid ---------- */
.grid{ max-width:1140px; margin:34px auto 8px; padding:0 22px;
  display:grid; grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(288px,1fr)); gap:26px; }
.card{ background:var(--surface); border:1px solid var(--line); border-radius:16px; overflow:hidden;
  box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm); display:flex; flex-direction:column; transition:transform .22s,box-shadow .22s,border-color .22s; }
.card:hover{ transform:translateY(-5px); box-shadow:var(--shadow); border-color:var(--gold-2); }
.card:focus-visible{ outline:2px solid var(--gold); outline-offset:3px; }
.card-cover{ position:relative; aspect-ratio:16/10; overflow:hidden; background:var(--navy); }
.cover-svg{ position:absolute; inset:0; width:100%; height:100%; display:block; }
.badge{ position:absolute; top:12px; left:12px; background:rgba(255,255,255,.94); color:var(--navy);
  border-radius:9px; padding:6px 9px 5px; text-align:center; line-height:1; box-shadow:0 4px 12px rgba(0,0,0,.18); }
.badge b{ display:block; font-family:'Playfair Display',serif; font-size:19px; font-weight:800; }
.badge{ font-size:10px; font-weight:700; letter-spacing:1px; color:var(--gold); }
.badge b{ color:var(--navy); }
.chip{ position:absolute; left:12px; bottom:12px; background:var(--gold); color:#1a1205;
  font-size:11px; font-weight:700; letter-spacing:.6px; padding:5px 11px; border-radius:100px; text-transform:uppercase; }
.card-body{ padding:18px 18px 20px; display:flex; flex-direction:column; gap:9px; flex:1; }
.card-body h3{ font-size:20px; font-weight:700; line-height:1.24; margin:0; letter-spacing:-.2px; text-wrap:balance; }
.card-body p{ color:var(--muted); font-size:14px; margin:0;
  display:-webkit-box; -webkit-line-clamp:3; -webkit-box-orient:vertical; overflow:hidden; }
.card-body .more{ margin-top:auto; color:var(--gold); font-weight:700; font-size:13.5px; letter-spacing:.3px; }

/* ---------- section rule ---------- */
.section-rule{ max-width:1140px; margin:44px auto 6px; padding:0 22px; display:flex; align-items:center; gap:18px; color:var(--muted); }
.section-rule::before,.section-rule::after{ content:""; height:1px; background:var(--line); flex:1; }
.section-rule span{ font-size:12px; letter-spacing:2px; text-transform:uppercase; font-weight:600; color:var(--gold); white-space:nowrap; }

/* ---------- posts ---------- */
.posts{ display:flex; flex-direction:column; gap:12px; padding:22px 0 0; }
.post{ max-width:var(--maxw); margin:0 auto; padding:34px 22px; width:100%; border-top:1px solid var(--line); }
.post:first-child{ border-top:none; }
.post-cover{ position:relative; aspect-ratio:2.3/1; border-radius:16px; overflow:hidden; box-shadow:var(--shadow); margin-bottom:22px; background:var(--navy); }
.post .eyebrow{ margin-bottom:8px; }
.post-title{ font-size:clamp(26px,4.6vw,38px); font-weight:800; line-height:1.1; letter-spacing:-.4px; margin:0 0 12px; text-wrap:balance; }
.meta{ display:flex; align-items:center; gap:9px; flex-wrap:wrap; color:var(--muted); font-size:13.5px; margin-bottom:20px; }
.meta .dot{ opacity:.5; }

/* ---------- prose ---------- */
.prose{ font-size:16.5px; line-height:1.78; }
.prose .lead{ font-size:18.5px; line-height:1.7; color:var(--ink); font-weight:500; margin:0 0 22px; }
.prose h2{ font-size:24px; font-weight:700; letter-spacing:-.2px; margin:30px 0 12px; line-height:1.25; }
.prose p{ margin:0 0 16px; color:var(--ink); }
.prose ul,.prose ol{ margin:0 0 18px; padding-left:0; list-style:none; display:flex; flex-direction:column; gap:10px; }
.prose ul li{ position:relative; padding-left:26px; color:var(--ink); }
.prose ul li::before{ content:"◆"; position:absolute; left:2px; top:1px; color:var(--gold); font-size:11px; }
.prose li b{ color:var(--ink); }
.prose a{ color:var(--gold); text-decoration:underline; text-underline-offset:2px; }
.prose i{ color:var(--muted); }

/* itinerary as numbered timeline */
ol.itin{ counter-reset:step; }
ol.itin li{ position:relative; padding-left:44px; min-height:30px; }
ol.itin li::before{ counter-increment:step; content:counter(step); position:absolute; left:0; top:-2px;
  width:30px; height:30px; border-radius:50%; background:var(--navy); color:#fff;
  font-family:'Playfair Display',serif; font-weight:700; font-size:15px; display:flex; align-items:center; justify-content:center; }

/* tip callout */
.tip{ position:relative; margin:24px 0 6px; padding:18px 20px 18px 22px; border-radius:12px;
  background:var(--surface-2); border:1px solid var(--line); border-left:4px solid var(--gold); color:var(--ink); font-size:15.5px; line-height:1.7; }
.tip span{ display:block; font-family:'Playfair Display',serif; font-weight:700; color:var(--gold); font-size:13px; letter-spacing:1px; text-transform:uppercase; margin-bottom:5px; }

/* cta */
.cta{ margin:28px 0 6px; padding:24px 24px 22px; border-radius:16px; color:#f4ecd8;
  background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--navy),var(--navy-2)); box-shadow:var(--shadow); }
.cta-k{ font-size:20px; font-weight:700; color:#fff; line-height:1.25; margin-bottom:8px; text-wrap:balance; }
.cta p{ margin:0 0 16px; font-size:14.5px; line-height:1.65; color:#cdd8e6; }
.cta p b{ color:#fff; }
.cta-row{ display:flex; align-items:center; gap:14px; flex-wrap:wrap; }
.btn{ display:inline-flex; align-items:center; gap:8px; background:var(--gold); color:#1a1205;
  font-weight:700; font-size:15px; padding:12px 20px; border-radius:10px; white-space:nowrap; transition:transform .18s,filter .18s; }
.btn:hover{ transform:translateY(-2px); filter:brightness(1.06); }
.cta-note{ font-size:12.5px; color:#9fb0c6; }

/* seo */
.seo{ margin:16px 0 0; border:1px dashed var(--line); border-radius:12px; background:var(--surface); }
.seo summary{ cursor:pointer; padding:12px 16px; font-size:13px; font-weight:700; color:var(--muted); letter-spacing:.3px; list-style:none; }
.seo summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.seo summary::before{ content:"▸ "; color:var(--gold); }
.seo[open] summary::before{ content:"▾ "; }
.seo-grid{ padding:2px 16px 16px; display:flex; flex-direction:column; gap:12px; }
.seo-grid span{ display:block; font-size:11px; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:1px; color:var(--gold); font-weight:700; margin-bottom:4px; }
.seo-grid code{ display:block; font-family:ui-monospace,SFMono-Regular,Menlo,Consolas,monospace; font-size:12.5px; line-height:1.55;
  background:var(--surface-2); border:1px solid var(--line); border-radius:8px; padding:9px 11px; color:var(--ink); word-break:break-word; }

/* footer */
.site-foot{ margin-top:40px; background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--navy),var(--navy-2)); color:#e7eef7; text-align:center; padding:48px 22px 40px; }
.foot-brand{ display:flex; align-items:center; justify-content:center; gap:11px; margin-bottom:14px; }
.foot-brand .brand-mark{ color:var(--gold); }
.foot-brand .mark{ width:34px; height:34px; }
.foot-brand b{ font-family:'Playfair Display',serif; font-size:19px; letter-spacing:.5px; color:#fff; }
.site-foot p{ max-width:52ch; margin:0 auto 20px; color:#bcc8d8; font-size:15px; }
.btn.big{ font-size:16px; padding:15px 26px; }
.foot-note{ margin-top:22px; font-size:12px; color:#8395ab; letter-spacing:.3px; }

@media (max-width:640px){
  .grid{ grid-template-columns:1fr; gap:20px; }
  .post{ padding:28px 18px; }
  .post-cover{ aspect-ratio:16/10; }
  .brand-txt i{ display:none; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){
  html{scroll-behavior:auto}
  *{transition:none !important; animation:none !important}
}

/* ---- photo covers ---- */
.cover-svg{ background-size:cover; background-position:center; background-color:var(--navy); }
.credit{ position:absolute; right:10px; bottom:10px; z-index:3; font-size:10.5px; color:#fff;
  background:rgba(8,16,30,.5); padding:3px 8px; border-radius:6px; letter-spacing:.2px;
  -webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(2px); backdrop-filter:blur(2px); max-width:70%; text-align:right; }

/* ---- multi-page routing ---- */
.view{ display:none; }
.view.active{ display:block; animation:viewin .4s ease both; }
@keyframes viewin{ from{opacity:0; transform:translateY(6px)} to{opacity:1; transform:none} }

.backbar{ position:sticky; top:0; z-index:30; display:flex; align-items:center; justify-content:space-between; gap:12px;
  padding:13px 22px; background:var(--surface); border-bottom:1px solid var(--line); box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm); }
.backbar .back{ font-weight:700; color:var(--gold); font-size:14.5px; }
.backbar .back:hover{ filter:brightness(1.08); }
.backbar .bb-phone{ font-weight:600; font-size:14px; color:var(--ink); white-space:nowrap; }
.backbar .bb-phone:hover{ color:var(--gold); }

.view.page .post{ border-top:none; padding-top:28px; }

/* ---- article + sidebar (desktop) ---- */
.post{ max-width:1140px !important; display:grid; grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 300px; gap:46px; align-items:start; }
.post-main{ min-width:0; }
.prose h2{ scroll-margin-top:74px; }
.side{ position:sticky; top:78px; display:flex; flex-direction:column; gap:16px; }
.side-card{ background:var(--surface); border:1px solid var(--line); border-radius:14px; padding:16px 17px 18px; box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm); }
.side-card h4{ font-family:'Playfair Display',Georgia,serif; font-size:15.5px; font-weight:700; margin:0 0 11px; color:var(--ink); }
.toc nav{ display:flex; flex-direction:column; gap:9px; }
.toc nav a{ font-size:13.5px; line-height:1.4; color:var(--muted); border-left:2px solid var(--line); padding-left:12px; transition:color .15s,border-color .15s; }
.toc nav a:hover{ color:var(--gold); border-left-color:var(--gold); }
.side .book{ background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--navy),var(--navy-2)); border:none; color:#e7eef7; }
.side .book .bk-h{ font-family:'Playfair Display',Georgia,serif; font-weight:700; font-size:17px; color:#fff; line-height:1.25; margin-bottom:7px; }
.side .book p{ font-size:12.5px; color:#bcc8d8; margin:0 0 13px; line-height:1.55; }
.side .book .btn{ display:flex; justify-content:center; width:100%; margin-bottom:8px; }
.side .book .btn.ghost{ background:transparent; border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.32); color:#fff; }
.side .book .btn.ghost:hover{ background:rgba(255,255,255,.1); }
@media (max-width:900px){
  .post{ grid-template-columns:1fr; max-width:var(--maxw) !important; }
  .side{ display:none; }
}

.related{ max-width:1140px; margin:6px auto 0; padding:34px 22px 10px; border-top:1px solid var(--line); }
.related h4{ font-family:'Playfair Display',Georgia,serif; font-size:21px; font-weight:700; color:var(--ink); margin:0; text-align:center; letter-spacing:-.2px; }
.related .grid{ max-width:none; margin:22px 0 0; padding:0; }

.note2026{ display:flex; gap:12px; align-items:flex-start; margin:0 0 24px; padding:13px 16px; border-radius:12px;
  background:var(--surface-2); border:1px solid var(--line); font-size:14px; line-height:1.6; color:var(--muted); }
.note2026 > span{ flex:none; font-family:'Be Vietnam Pro',sans-serif; font-size:10px; font-weight:700; letter-spacing:.8px; text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--gold); border:1px solid var(--gold); border-radius:100px; padding:4px 9px; margin-top:1px; white-space:nowrap; }
.note2026 b{ color:var(--ink); font-weight:600; }

.view.page .site-foot{ margin-top:34px; }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){ .view.active{ animation:none !important; } }

.cover-img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block}
.brand .mk-img{width:40px;height:40px;display:block;flex:none}
.head-link{font-size:14px;font-weight:600;color:var(--ink)}.head-link:hover{color:var(--gold)}